Forbidden Peak, WA

Overview: A three-day climb of Forbidden Peak is summit focused. Days two or three are possible summit days, to provide more of a weather window. The additional time in the mountains can also allow for a more low key pace and time to review or introduce technical skills. This trip is suitable for experience levels ranging from no glaciated mountaineering experience to seasoned alpinists, depending on route.

Maximum Guest to Guide Ratio: 2:1

Prerequisites: Minimum Technical Proficiency:
- see route specific prerequisites

Minimum Physical Ability: 
- see route specific prerequisites

Anyone unable to maintain the prerequisite pace may be turned around prior to camp on day one or required to stay in camp during the summit attempt. On private bookings, the trip’s objective may also be changed if guests don’t meet the physical or technical prerequisites.

Itinerary
Day 1 - Early morning meetup in Burlington, WA
- Introductions and trip overview. Fit boots, crampons, and ice axes, if necessary. Check gear
- Depart for trailhead
- Ascend to camp
- Lunch
- Establish camp and relax
- Skills clinic relevant to route/conditions
- Early dinner and bed

Day 2
- Start summit ascent pre-sunrise or early morning
- Mid morning to day summit turnaround time
- Lunch
- Mid afternoon/early evening return to camp
- Dinner and bed
(Note: North Ridge ascents will require an on route bivy on the night of day 2)

Day 3
- Skills clinic
- Breakdown camp
- Lunch
- Descend from camp
- Mid afternoon/early evening return to trailhead
(Note: Summit day will sometimes shift to day 3 based on conditions)

Weather - Conditions frequently make or break summit attempts. We are unable to reschedule trips within 30 days or provide refunds due to conditions that prevent summiting. Your guide(s) will do everything possible to provide a valuable trip regardless of the conditions. This may include the option of changing a day’s objective to rock climbing or spending additional time working on more advanced mountaineering skills after climbing to a high point on the mountain.

Overview: A two-day ascent of Forbidden Peak via the West or East ridges is geared for experienced climbers who already have glaciated climbing experience, multi-pitch rock climbing experience, and have a high level of physical fitness. A two-day ascent can entail 12+ hour days.

Maximum Guest to Guide Ratio: 2:1

Prerequisites:
Minimum Technical Proficiency:
- 1 day prior crampon and ice axe use
- 1 day prior crevasse rescue training
- 1 day prior multi-pitch rock climbing

Minimum Physical Ability:
- see route specific prerequisites

Anyone unable to maintain the prerequisite pace may be turned around prior to camp on day one or required to stay in camp during the summit attempt. On private bookings, the trip’s objective may also be changed if guests don’t meet the physical or technical prerequisites.

Itinerary
Day 1
- Early morning meetup in Burlington, WA
- Introductions and trip overview. Fit boots, crampons, and ice axes, if necessary. Check gear
- Depart for trailhead
- Ascend to camp
- Lunch
- Establish camp and relax
- Skills clinic
- Early dinner and bed

Day 2
- Start summit ascent pre-sunrise
- Mid morning summit turnaround time
- Lunch
- Return to camp and breakdown
- Mid afternoon/early evening return to trailhead

Weather - Conditions frequently make or break summit attempts. We are unable to reschedule trips within 30 days or provide refunds due to conditions that prevent summiting. Your guide(s) will do everything possible to provide a valuable trip regardless of the conditions. This may include the option of changing a day’s objective to rock climbing or spending additional time working on more advanced mountaineering skills after climbing to a high point on the mountain.

2024 North Cascade Dates

Private Guiding
- June 7 - 17
- July 19 - 29

Open Enrollment Trips
West Ridge of Forbidden Peak
- June 11-12 (Full)

Mount Triumph
- July 23-24 (two spaces available)

Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys
- June 14-16 (one space available)
- July 26-28 (two spaces available)

Mount Baker First Ascent Course
- June 7-9 (one space available)
- July 19-21 (three spaces available)

Anyone unable to maintain the prerequisite pace may be turned around prior to camp on day one or required to stay in camp during the summit attempt. On private bookings, the trip’s objective may also be changed if guests don’t meet the physical or technical prerequisites.

West Ridge Route
Minimum Technical Proficiency:
- 1 day prior multi-pitch rock climbing
- 1 day prior 5.7 rock climbing
- 1 day prior crampon and ice axe use
- 1 day prior crevasse rescue training

Minimum Physical Ability:
- Comfortably ascend at a rate of 1,000’ vertical feet per hour with a 20-45lb pack
- Comfortably hike/climb for up to a 12 hour day with hourly 5-10 minute breaks
- Comfortably ascend 5,100’ and descend 5,600’ in elevation on foot, in one day

East Ridge Route
Minimum Technical Proficiency:
- 1 day prior multi-pitch rock climbing
- 1 day prior 5.7 rock climbing
- 1 day prior crampon and ice axe use
- 1 day prior crevasse rescue training

Minimum Physical Ability:
- Comfortably ascend at a rate of 1,000’ vertical feet per hour with a 20-45lb pack
- Comfortably hike/climb for up to a 12 hour day with hourly 5-10
minute breaks- Comfortably ascend 5,100’ and descend 5,600’ in elevation on foot, in one day

North Ridge Route
Minimum Technical Proficiency:
- 1 day prior multi-pitch rock climbing
- 1 day prior 5.7 rock climbing
- 1 day prior crampon and ice axe use
- 1 day prior crevasse rescue training
- 1 prior multi-day alpine climb

Minimum Physical Ability:
- Comfortably ascend at a rate of 1,000’ vertical feet per hour with a 20-45lb pack
- Comfortably hike/climb for up to a 12 hour day with hourly 5-10 minute breaks
- Comfortably ascend 5,100’ and descend 5,600’ in elevation on foot, in one day

Included:
- Harness, helmet, trekking pole, tent/bivy, stove and fuel, and Ursack, if you don’t have your own (see provided Required Equipment below)
- Guide(s) for your group

Not Included:
- Food (3 meals per day, snacks etc), Water, Sunscreen, Bug spray
- All items from the Equipment List below marked as not provided
- Transportation
- Parking passes
- Guide gratuity

See your confirmation email for further details of what to bring.

Equipment List
The below packing list is to ensure you are prepared for your trip. Please review each section thoroughly.

A note on equipment and packing: Alpine climbing is speed, energy, and equipment intensive. Carrying the minimal amount of highly functional equipment necessary for the objective can make or break a trip. Ensure your gear is in good working order. Strive to leave behind anything that you don’t actually need. However, having a variety of equipment in your vehicle can provide options if the weather isn’t what you expected or permits aren’t available for the planned route etc.

Required Equipment (not provided unless rented during the booking process):
Mountaineering boots: with at least a heel welt for crampon compatibility. Early and late season conditions can require a 1.5 or double single layer full shank boot. Mid season, a summer alpine boot with a ¾ shank is appropriate. Gaiters can be essential in early and late season and at transitional points in the season where there is substantial snow. BRMG is happy to help with boot recommendations. We may insist on a specific type of boot for an objective given the conditions.

Crampons: semi or fully automatic steel crampons with horizontal front points are the most versatile option for most Cascade routes during the summer. Vertical front points are acceptable as well. For less technical routes not involving rock or ice, aluminum crampons are an option for saving weight and bulk.

Ice Tools/Axe: a technical axe with a steel pick such as the Petzl Sumtech is a versatile option. For routes with ice climbing such as the North Ridge of Mount Baker, the addition of a more technical (~50cm) ice tool will likely be necessary. For less technical routes a single 50cm or longer ice axe may be appropriate. Steeper snow routes such as the North Face of Mount Shuksan may warrant two axes or an axe and tool. For snow-centric climbing requiring two axes/tools, lightweight aluminum axes are an option to save weight.

You can bring your own mountaineering boots, crampons and ice tools/axe if you prefer and they meet the above criteria.

If you need to rent equipment, and you didn’t during the booking process, contact us as soon as possible or arrange rental from a local outfitter.

Required Equipment (provided, but you can bring your own if you prefer):
- Harness
- Helmet
- Collapsible trekking pole(s) (compact enough to fit inside your backpack)
- Lightweight Tent or Bivy Sack
- Isobutane Stove for melting snow and boiling water
- Stove Fuel
- Ursack (bear/rodent resistant container) required in most areas of the Cascades

(All smellable items must be stored in these containers at night and while out of camp)

Crevasse Rescue Kit:
- Micro or Nano Traxion or similar, picket, Tibloc or similar, friction hitch loop, 6’ sling, 1 locking carabiner, and 2 non-locking carabiners. 1 Ice Screw (medium length- ~17cm)

Required Clothing (not provided):
- Gloves (multiple pairs are ideal: thinner softshell gloves for climbing, medium thickness water-proof gloves for belaying and in camp. Two to three pairs of gloves is not unreasonable. Mittens can be a good option if you are prone to cold hands.
- Socks (synthetic or wool) - 2-3 pairs ranging from thin to medium thickness
- Base layer - bottoms (synthetic or wool)
- Sun Shirt/Hoody - will serve as your upper base layer. Second upper baselayer optional.
- Fleece/synthetic mid layer
- Soft shell jacket/wind shirt
- Soft shell pants (note: it's common to tear pant legs with crampons)
- Down/synthetic over-everything jacked (to be worn while not climbing)
- Hard shell pants with full leg zips (fully waterproof, GORE-TEX or similar)
- Hard shell jacket with hood (fully waterproof, GORE-TEX or similar)
- Warm hat (toque style that covers the ears - consider fit under a helmet)
- Baseball style hat or visor (consider fit under a helmet)
- Approach shoes, running shoes or hiking boots - used for trail mileage on approach (sturdy enough for carrying a full pack) and around camp
- Shorts or ultra-light hiking pants

Other Required Items (not provided):
- Backpack (50-65 liters) for carrying your camping/group gear (sleeping bag, tent etc.), climbing gear (harness, helmet, ice axe etc.), and personal items (including food, water, medication, additional winter clothing etc) to camp.
- An additional backpack (20-30 liters) to climb in, unless your larger pack has a removable frame and can be compressed down. This additional pack is especially recommended for objectives involving significant multi-pitch climbing.
- Sleeping pad - inflatable or closed cell foam (for snow camping you will need two closed cell foam pads or a closed cell foam pad and inflatable pad)
- Sleeping bag - 20degF - 45degF rating range
- Food (breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks, energy bars etc.; freeze-dried/dehydrated meal pouches recommended for breakfast and dinner; lunch should not require cooking)
- Water (an initial 1-2 liter supply to start with from the trailhead)
- Eating utensil
- Water bottles (2x 1-liter lightweight bottles is recommended)
- Water purification method: charcoal filter, SteriPen, Iodine Tablets, or extra isobutane fuel for boiling
- Headlamp with extra batteries
- Small disposable butane lighter (Bic style)

Required Personal Items (not provided):
- Elevation/snow rated sunscreen & lip balm
- Sunglasses/glacier glasses appropriate for elevation and snow (must be wrap-around style or have side shields)
- Bug spray
- Toilet paper
- Personal toiletries, medication and other personal items
- Wag bags or Blue bags (blue bags are available at Ranger stations and some trailheads free of charge.) You may prefer to purchase commercial bags such as El Crap or Restop II bags. All solid waste must be carried out of the backcountry.

Optional/Suggested items:
- Backpack liner or large trash bag
- Dromedary (2-4 liters)
- ½ liter Nalgene or cup
- Bowl
- Ziplock bags (useful for storing food and trash)
- Hand sanitizer or soap
- Personal first aid kit (specifically consider blister care)
- Pee funnel for women
- Additional underwear
- Buff
- Gaiters (full-size and waterproof, to wear over mountaineering boots)
- Phone charging cable and auxiliary battery
- Satellite communicator (Garmin InReach Mini2 or similar)
- Inflatable pillow
- Ear plugs

See your confirmation email and logistics document for further details of what to bring.

Private Guiding
1 person: $585 per day
2 people: $450 per person per day
3+ people: $415 per person per day

3 Day Open Enrollment Trips
Mount Baker: $1,245 per person

Mt. Shuksan, Boston Basin or N. Ridge of Mt. Baker: $1,350 per person

2 Day Open Enrollment Trips
Mount Shuksan, Boston Basin, Mount Triumph, or North Ridge of Mount Baker: $900 per person

*Rates do not include food, rental equipment, or transportation*

Cancellation/Reschedule Policies
Groups of 7+, AMGA Programs, AIARE Courses, and all WA & NY Programs

At the time of booking, a 50% deposit is due. Deposits are refundable 90 days or more prior to your program start. NC State Park Fees are charged at the time of booking and are non-refundable and non-transferable. Your deposit is transferable once within the calendar year if requested 30 days prior to the scheduled program start. Once a deposit is transferred to a new booking, the full program cost is due and is non-refundable and non-transferable. Within 30 days of all scheduled programs, the full program cost is due and is non-refundable and non-transferable. In the event of severe weather or other circumstances out of BRMG’s control, or if parks and forests close or are not able to issue permits, it may be necessary to reschedule or change the location or objective of your trip.

Insurance
We strongly recommend purchasing travel insurance from an insurer such as IMG, Travel Guard, or Red Point if you would like financial protection beyond our cancellation/reschedule policy. Take care to ensure that your specific trip is covered.

Blue Ridge Mountain Guides, LLC does not cover rescue or evacuation expenses. For remote rock climbing, backcountry programs such as avalanche education, alpine climbing, mountaineering, and backcountry skiing/riding, we strongly recommend you purchase rescue/evacuation insurance from an insurer such as Global Rescue or Red Point. Both companies offer combined rescue and travel insurance.